Tech Tips

Training for Steep Climbing

Arno pulling hard at American Fork, UT

It is hard to stay in shape for climbing in places like the Red River Gorge, New River Gorge, and Rifle, CO, all of which present steep climbing that most of us don’t get to do 4 to 5 days a week, especially when it is hot and humid outside. I have been doing this workout 2 to 3 times per week for my upcoming climbing stint in the Red River Gorge.

In the Climbing Gym–

Warm up:

I do this with an auto-belay and usually on very easy, juggy routes. I climb up as well as down-climb and usually spend about 20 min.

4 x 4s:

You can do these on boulder problems or routes. I have found boulder problems to be more useful for me personally, and I tend to push myself harder.

Pick a route or 4 different routes that you can complete without coming off the wall. These routes should be near your limit at the last set, and you might even fall off. Climb the route and then down-climb any route to get back to the start of your next route. Do this 4 times, shaking out when needed. Then take a 5 min rest between sets.

Repeat 4 times.

Bachar Ladder:

I go up the Bachar Ladder using my feet to move up. Once I hit the next rung, I cut feet and do a right toe raise to the height of the bottom hand and then a left toe raise. I then put one foot on to move one hand up a full bar. You can see this in the video.

Do this 2 times with a 5 min rest in between.

Hangboard:

Start on small holds (no shaking). Hang for 60 seconds.

Move to a jug with one hand, shake with the other. 30 seconds.

Switch hands. 30 seconds.

Back to small holds (no shaking). 60 seconds.

Move to jug with one hand, shake with the other. 30 seconds.

Switch hands. 30 seconds.

Back to small holds (no shaking). 60 seconds.

Rest for 5 min and repeat 3 times.

Cool Down: Probably just walking to the car. Don’t drive until you can hold the steering wheel.

I have also been doing a lot of mountain running and biking to keep my cardio in good shape. You want to do this to both stay lean and be able to keep your heart rate down on those pumpy routes this fall.

Good luck on all your sends!

%d bloggers like this: