Blog

Rescue in Michigan

The Michigan Ice fest had another awesome year and the turnout was amazing! Ice climbing in the U.P. has really grown just like it has around the rest or the U.S. This of course means folk trying things that maybe push their abilities a little over the edge and they can wind up in some trouble. Here is the incident report I put together for ANAC:   Rescue Report February 17, 2017 Rescuers: Jeff Whit Sam Magro Carlos Beuler Karsten Delap   The call from the 911 center to Bill Thompson happened about 6:45 PM. The call came through that there was a climber that...

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Bad Decisions and the EDK

It is incredible that we are still referring to the Flat Overhand as the “EDK” let alone having Rock and Ice magazine tell people it is unsafe, should be thought of “like the 13th floor”, and not use it. Rock and Ice Article I just went to some continuing education at the American Mountain Guides Association’s annual conference where I sat in on a great talk by Silas Rossi on how as humans we just make bad decisions. This clinic was held at the Petzl institute about a half hour after some of the worlds most experienced guides tested the flat overhand for the millionth time. Now Silas,...

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Climbing the Midi-Plan Traverse

My partner was sick yesterday so I went out on a solo mission and wanted to see some new terrain. Not knowing exactly what I was going to get into I packed my Deuter Speed Lite 20 and took off for the Aiguille du Midi. After leaving the Midi I could see the Aiguille du Plan and it seemed the obvious choice for an outing but I knew nothing about the route. In my Speed Lite 20 pack I brought a 7.5mm tag line if I needed to rappel, a half liter of water, one GU, my Petzl Altitude harness, my Reverso, Sarken crampons, a sling and locking carabiner, and my La Sportiva Hail Jacket. So I was definitely...

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Why do you climb?

Why do we climb?     “Because it is there.” This is the obligatory first line and the historical answer to this question that George Mallory so kindly provided us with in 1943. While this reason could be reason enough for most involved in the sport, I think many of us that have been climbing for over a decade and logged thousands of miles on stone, ice and snow, it is a much more in depth question.   I was just in a private conversation on Facebook with a few climbers talking about ethics (never a good subject), and it dawned on me that even these dedicated, weekend...

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Ground Up Bolting

Ground up bolting has been long thought to be the "Leave No Trace" way of bolting, and making the most ethical sense. As climbing continues to grow we are needing to think about our impacts to areas and also how we can accommodate more climbers at the crag. When climbs are bolted from the ground up, great adventure is had by the individuals opening the new ground. They sometimes are not sure if the route goes, bolts get placed where convenient, holes are not very round leaving spinning hangars and in some cases one has to place bolts to pull on or aid to move forward. While this provides the first...

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